The New Vegan Cheesemakers

Vegan cheeses from Miyoko's Creamery, Kite Hill and Fromagerie Esseme

Vegan cheeses from Miyoko’s Creamery, Kite Hill and Fromagerie Esseme (photo: Russell Yip)

Though nondairy cheeses have a 100-year-long history in the United States, up until the present, most have have been rubbery and tasteless. My recent feature for the Chronicle profiles a new generation of artisanal vegan cheesemakers, inspired by Bay Area cookbook author Miyoko Schinner. Instead of fabricating something that looks and melts like cheese, they’re taking a taste-first approach, inoculating nut milks with cheese cultures and asking themselves: What is it that makes cheese so good?