The Masters of Masa

mexicanmomentFor its February 2014 issue, San Francisco magazine asked John Birdsall and me to spend two months chronicling the state of Mexican food in the Bay Area. This was no burrito roundup: We covered family-style restaurants primarily serving the Mexican American community as well as the recent upswell of higher-end places combining Mexican flavors with California bistro cuisine. John focused on Oakland and Berkeley, I on San Francisco, and we divvied up the remaining areas.