In Which I Get My Own Column
As of October 2015, the Chronicle’s food section has given me control of a column, “Forager,” which appears three weeks out of four. My mandate at the paper is to cover the intersection of food and culture — a broad task — and so “Forager” contains an eclectic mix of profiles, essays, and guides. A few of the inaugural columns:
Bay Area’s Food-Delivery Boom and Its Ethical Dilemma: Diners can now order any kind of food brought to their door by drivers in the “sharing economy.” But a flood of lawsuits against companies like Caviar and DoorDash raises the question: Are we overlooking the cost to the workers who bring us our food?
A Chef Finally Gets the Japanese Restaurant He Wants: Kiyoshi Hayakawa’s career parallels the story of sushi in the Bay Area. One of the originators of rock-and-roll sushi, with its giant maki covered in squiggles of sauce, has just taken over a tiny restaurant where he’s serving classic nigiri, omakase (chef’s choice) style, which he thinks America is finally ready for.
Is the Bay Area Developing Its Own Style of Bagel? For decades, New York expats have pooh-poohed or slammed local attempts to bake a “proper” bagel. Now bakers are closing their ears to the criticism and coming up with bagels that meet the criteria for “proper” bagels while expressing a Northern California approach to baking.